Exploring the abandoned Johnburg town: A scenic self-drive tour in the Flinders Ranges in South Australia

There’s something magical about ruins—the way they stand as silent witnesses to the past. Lately, we’ve found ourselves drawn to their stories. When we heard about Johnburg, an abandoned town nestled in the Flinders Ranges, we couldn’t resist the call. Though I work Saturdays until 1 PM, the allure of history was strong enough to fuel a post-work road trip.

First Stop: Peterborough

By 5 PM, we rolled into Peterborough, a charming town steeped in railway history. Once a bustling hub connecting the east to the west by steam train, Peterborough now charms visitors with its historic architecture and rich displays of its past. Though we had limited time, the town left an impression.

We started with a drink at the historic Peterborough Hotel, soaking in the country vibes, then wandered down the main street to the Junction Hotel. The friendly service, delicious food, and house-brewed beers made it a perfect pit stop before heading back on the road.

Overnight in Carrieton

Our destination for the night was Carrieton, a small town with a big heart. With a population of just 51, Carrieton offers a uniquely intimate stay. We checked into the local caravan and tourist park, which is set in the old school grounds. Our cottage, the former school library, was full of rustic charm, complete with antique furnishings and vintage kitchenware. It felt like stepping back in time.

Morning Explorations Begin

We started early the next morning, eager to squeeze in as much as possible. Over coffee in the camp kitchen, we chatted with the park caretakers—a goldmine of local knowledge. They handed us an A3 self-drive tour guide along with other helpful brochures, setting the stage for our adventure.

The Johnburg Self-Drive Loop

This 80-kilometer loop begins right off the highway as you enter Carrieton. The gravel roads, though unsealed, are well-maintained and easily navigable even in a standard 2WD car. Armed with our Subaru Liberty, we were ready.

First Stop: Carrieton Cemetery

Our first stop was the Carrieton Cemetery, a quiet place where history feels alive. Wandering among the weathered headstones, we glimpsed the lives of early settlers and the incredible hardships they endured. It was a humbling way to start the day.

Through the Rugged Outback

As we continued along the loop, the landscape shifted dramatically. Rolling hills gave way to open plains dotted with mallee scrub, slate outcrops, and grazing cattle. Kangaroos bounded across the road, windmills turned lazily in the breeze, and the Oladdie Hills stood rugged in the distance. Near the picturesque Oladdie Creek, we stumbled upon the Oladdie Homestead ruins—a hauntingly beautiful relic of the past.

The Highlight: Johnburg Ruins

The star of the drive, of course, was Johnburg. This once-thriving settlement now lies in quiet decay, its ruins telling the story of a town defeated by drought and unforgiving conditions. Of all the remnants, the Johnburg Hotel stood out the most. Built in the 1880s, it was the heart of the community—a gathering place for locals and travelers alike. Though its roof and walls are crumbling, the building still exudes a sense of grandeur and resilience.